Hello from Millinocket, Maine and the end of the trail! Yesterday, I summited Mt. Katahdin (the tallest mountain in Maine and the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail). It's hard to fathom that I started walking this trail in Georgia over 6 1/2 months ago in March! We were surrounded by good friends (three guys who we've been hiking on and off with since mile 200 back in the Smokies!) and it was a true celebration, complete with hugs, kisses, tears, cold beers and cigars. Ok, well, I didn't smoke a cigar, but it was quite the joyous event on top of the rocky, windy summit.
I have always loved Maine, but now it knows I have an official crush on it. I have really enjoyed hiking this state and would have to say that it definitely ranks high on my favorite places on the entire trail. Maine is a great way to end this journey. Big, rugged mountains, hundreds of lakes and ponds, golden fall foliage and quiet walks through uncrowded forests.The one thing that I don't really enjoy is that Maine doesn't seem to feel the need to build bridges. When you get to a creek or swelled river, you just take off your boots and walk across its freezing waters. Kris actually lost one of her Crocs on one of the fords and we implemented an elaborate way to cross these water obstacles sharing one pair of shoes. It involved rope and patience, but we did it. Some fords were ankle deep while others were mid-thigh high. Brrrrr! We got off pretty easy, though. Some of our friends, after recent rain storms, crossed at waist to chest high. No thanks!
One river, the Kennebec near Caratunk, Maine, is so dangerous that you actually have to be canoed across it by a Maine guide waiting at the bank. The river is wide and fast and rises 2-4 ft without warning because of the hydroelectric damns that release water upstream with no particular schedule. A few years ago, a hiker drowned trying to cross and the canoe ferry system has been in use ever since. The only problem is that it only runs for two hours, two times a day and by October 1st it only runs from 9-11am. If you miss it, then you wait until the next morning! Well, what an adventure that was. We started our morning about 9 1/2 miles from the river. Worried we weren't going to make it, we RAN, with full packs, the last 3.6 miles in an 1 hour and 15 minutes! We arrived, panting, on the Kennebec shores with barely 10 minutes to spare!! We were his last passengers for the day and he calmly said in his thick Maine accent "The job pays good, but not that good. 11:01, I'm gone." Whew!
This past week we hiked the "100 mile wilderness" in 7 days. It's the last section of the trail before Mt. Katahdin and at one time was considered some of the "most remote feeling woods on the whole trail" and hikers were encouraged to carry 10 days worth of food because there was nowhere to get off for a resupply. Well, in recent years multiple logging roads have been carved through the woods and have increased car and hiker traffic. It was a beautiful section of the trail and a great way to get us ready for the big finale.
Well, this journey may be coming to an end, but the rest of my life is just beginning. Ryan has officially moved to Park City, UT and I will be joining him by Thanksgiving. Besides a strong, thin body I have gained so much from this adventure. All of which will be with me forever. Thanks to everyone for all the encouragement. I couldn't have done it without you!
All my love,
Sarah
PS By the numbers...
Miles: 2,176.2 miles
States: 14
Pairs of boots: 4 1/2
Pounds lost: 6......that's right a measly six pounds!!
Biggest single day: 24.5 miles
Photographer. Writer. Farmer. A Lover of Life. sarahjonesdecker.com Appalachiantrailshelters.com
Madison County View
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
Saturday, October 04, 2008
Katahdin in the distance
Hello from Stratton, Maine and mile 1,988. That's right, we cross over mile 2,000 today and have less than 200 to go. I can't believe it.
We crossed into our final state about a week ago and the terrain has been rugged, wet and tough. The first day we did the much anticipated Mahoosuc Notch, the single hardest mile on the entire trail. It took us 2 hours and 45 minutes! We usually hike 2-2 1/2 miles an hour, but that day was a different story all together. "The notch" is a deep ravine of boulder obstacles that we climbed over, under and we even had to take our packs off multiple times to squeeze beneath the rocks. Last year a moose fell in there an broke its' leg and starved to death and we had to climb over its bones. My dad, who has hiked all of VT, NH and most of ME, said a few weeks before we got there "you're hiking my exact foot steps my dear. I left a piece of my leg there in the 70's. If you want to get that for me, that would be great." Well, I fell on the first rock and cut up my shin, so I left my own blood behind instead.
Needless to say, it was great having my dad's truck waiting for us as at the trail head as the rain was pouring down after that crazy day. Kris and two of our friends came home to my dad's house in the tiny town of Weld, Me (pop. 402ish) for some true Maine hospitality. A hurricane hit the coast that day and we spent a zero day relaxing in a nice comfy house. We even had a true Maine feast....bear tenderloin, deer stew and Maine lobster. Fantastic. Not too many thru-hikers can say that had that kind of meal!
I finally saw a moose (after visiting up here for YEARS and jokingly saying how I would never see one.) Kris has seen three total, one cow and two bulls. These things are massive. For some reason, I always thought of them more as deer, but they are like huge horses galloping through the woods. The one I saw was slowly creeping through the trees and I just stood there and watched. We have been seeing their tracks for weeks and it's amazing that they can fit their huge racks through the thick woods.
The morning we saw the moose, I said to Kris "Finally! Today is going to be a good day." Oh, I couldn't have been so wrong. The weather has been crazy up here. Saddleback Mountain, a range I had been looking forward to hiking, was one of our worst days on the trail to date. Cold weather, sideways rain, zero visibility. If a helicopter landed at any point during that day and asked if I wanted to quit and go home to my mommy, I would have been in that chopper sipping emergency hot coco before he could even finish his sentence. But, alas, we didn't give up. And we won't. Everyone has bad days. We have just had a few rainy, cold ones in a row lately.
But we move on. We did laundry, had hot showers and hot meals yesterday and stayed at the Stratton Motel and hostel and feel refreshed to head back out. In a few days, we will be in Monson, ME and going into the "hundred mile wilderness" and up to Mt. Katahdin. My dad will be joining us for the final rugged climb and we can't wait. Apparently, you can see the first sight of Katahdin from Saddleback...not that we saw anything, but we will start seeing it in the distance from multiple upcoming peaks. It seemed so far away in Georgia and now we can literally see it in the distance. Woohoo!
Keep warm thoughts coming our way as we head into the last two weeks.
All my love
Sarah
We crossed into our final state about a week ago and the terrain has been rugged, wet and tough. The first day we did the much anticipated Mahoosuc Notch, the single hardest mile on the entire trail. It took us 2 hours and 45 minutes! We usually hike 2-2 1/2 miles an hour, but that day was a different story all together. "The notch" is a deep ravine of boulder obstacles that we climbed over, under and we even had to take our packs off multiple times to squeeze beneath the rocks. Last year a moose fell in there an broke its' leg and starved to death and we had to climb over its bones. My dad, who has hiked all of VT, NH and most of ME, said a few weeks before we got there "you're hiking my exact foot steps my dear. I left a piece of my leg there in the 70's. If you want to get that for me, that would be great." Well, I fell on the first rock and cut up my shin, so I left my own blood behind instead.
Needless to say, it was great having my dad's truck waiting for us as at the trail head as the rain was pouring down after that crazy day. Kris and two of our friends came home to my dad's house in the tiny town of Weld, Me (pop. 402ish) for some true Maine hospitality. A hurricane hit the coast that day and we spent a zero day relaxing in a nice comfy house. We even had a true Maine feast....bear tenderloin, deer stew and Maine lobster. Fantastic. Not too many thru-hikers can say that had that kind of meal!
I finally saw a moose (after visiting up here for YEARS and jokingly saying how I would never see one.) Kris has seen three total, one cow and two bulls. These things are massive. For some reason, I always thought of them more as deer, but they are like huge horses galloping through the woods. The one I saw was slowly creeping through the trees and I just stood there and watched. We have been seeing their tracks for weeks and it's amazing that they can fit their huge racks through the thick woods.
The morning we saw the moose, I said to Kris "Finally! Today is going to be a good day." Oh, I couldn't have been so wrong. The weather has been crazy up here. Saddleback Mountain, a range I had been looking forward to hiking, was one of our worst days on the trail to date. Cold weather, sideways rain, zero visibility. If a helicopter landed at any point during that day and asked if I wanted to quit and go home to my mommy, I would have been in that chopper sipping emergency hot coco before he could even finish his sentence. But, alas, we didn't give up. And we won't. Everyone has bad days. We have just had a few rainy, cold ones in a row lately.
But we move on. We did laundry, had hot showers and hot meals yesterday and stayed at the Stratton Motel and hostel and feel refreshed to head back out. In a few days, we will be in Monson, ME and going into the "hundred mile wilderness" and up to Mt. Katahdin. My dad will be joining us for the final rugged climb and we can't wait. Apparently, you can see the first sight of Katahdin from Saddleback...not that we saw anything, but we will start seeing it in the distance from multiple upcoming peaks. It seemed so far away in Georgia and now we can literally see it in the distance. Woohoo!
Keep warm thoughts coming our way as we head into the last two weeks.
All my love
Sarah
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