Madison County View

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

The big finale...

Hello from Millinocket, Maine and the end of the trail! Yesterday, I summited Mt. Katahdin (the tallest mountain in Maine and the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail). It's hard to fathom that I started walking this trail in Georgia over 6 1/2 months ago in March! We were surrounded by good friends (three guys who we've been hiking on and off with since mile 200 back in the Smokies!) and it was a true celebration, complete with hugs, kisses, tears, cold beers and cigars. Ok, well, I didn't smoke a cigar, but it was quite the joyous event on top of the rocky, windy summit.

I have always loved Maine, but now it knows I have an official crush on it. I have really enjoyed hiking this state and would have to say that it definitely ranks high on my favorite places on the entire trail. Maine is a great way to end this journey. Big, rugged mountains, hundreds of lakes and ponds, golden fall foliage and quiet walks through uncrowded forests.
The one thing that I don't really enjoy is that Maine doesn't seem to feel the need to build bridges. When you get to a creek or swelled river, you just take off your boots and walk across its freezing waters. Kris actually lost one of her Crocs on one of the fords and we implemented an elaborate way to cross these water obstacles sharing one pair of shoes. It involved rope and patience, but we did it. Some fords were ankle deep while others were mid-thigh high. Brrrrr! We got off pretty easy, though. Some of our friends, after recent rain storms, crossed at waist to chest high. No thanks!

One river, the
Kennebec near Caratunk, Maine, is so dangerous that you actually have to be canoed across it by a Maine guide waiting at the bank. The river is wide and fast and rises 2-4 ft without warning because of the hydroelectric damns that release water upstream with no particular schedule. A few years ago, a hiker drowned trying to cross and the canoe ferry system has been in use ever since. The only problem is that it only runs for two hours, two times a day and by October 1st it only runs from 9-11am. If you miss it, then you wait until the next morning! Well, what an adventure that was. We started our morning about 9 1/2 miles from the river. Worried we weren't going to make it, we RAN, with full packs, the last 3.6 miles in an 1 hour and 15 minutes! We arrived, panting, on the Kennebec shores with barely 10 minutes to spare!! We were his last passengers for the day and he calmly said in his thick Maine accent "The job pays good, but not that good. 11:01, I'm gone." Whew!

This past week we hiked the "100 mile wilderness" in 7 days. It's the last section of the trail before Mt. Katahdin and at one time was considered some of the "most remote feeling woods on the whole trail" and hikers were encouraged to carry 10 days worth of food because there was nowhere to get off for a resupply. Well, in recent years multiple logging roads have been carved through the woods and have increased car and hiker traffic. It was a beautiful section of the trail and a great way to get us ready for the big finale.

Well, this journey may be coming to an end, but the rest of my life is just beginning. Ryan has officially moved to Park City, UT and I will be joining him by Thanksgiving. Besides a strong, thin body I have gained so much from this adventure. All of which will be with me forever. Thanks to everyone for all the encouragement. I couldn't have done it without you!

All my love,
Sarah

PS By the numbers...

Miles: 2,176.2 miles
States: 14
Pairs of boots: 4 1/2
Pounds lost: 6......that's right a measly six pounds!!
Biggest single day: 24.5 miles


Saturday, October 04, 2008

Katahdin in the distance

Hello from Stratton, Maine and mile 1,988. That's right, we cross over mile 2,000 today and have less than 200 to go. I can't believe it.

We crossed into our final state about a week ago and the terrain has been rugged, wet and tough. The first day we did the much anticipated Mahoosuc Notch, the single hardest mile on the entire trail. It took us 2 hours and 45 minutes! We usually hike 2-2 1/2 miles an hour, but that day was a different story all together. "The notch" is a deep ravine of boulder obstacles that we climbed over, under and we even had to take our packs off multiple times to squeeze beneath the rocks. Last year a moose fell in there an broke its' leg and starved to death and we had to climb over its bones. My dad, who has hiked all of VT, NH and most of ME, said a few weeks before we got there "you're hiking my exact foot steps my dear. I left a piece of my leg there in the 70's. If you want to get that for me, that would be great." Well, I fell on the first rock and cut up my shin, so I left my own blood behind instead.

Needless to say, it was great having my dad's truck waiting for us as at the trail head as the rain was pouring down after that crazy day. Kris and two of our friends came home to my dad's house in the tiny town of Weld, Me (pop. 402ish) for some true Maine hospitality. A hurricane hit the coast that day and we spent a zero day relaxing in a nice comfy house. We even had a true Maine feast....bear tenderloin, deer stew and Maine lobster. Fantastic. Not too many thru-hikers can say that had that kind of meal!

I finally saw a moose (after visiting up here for YEARS and jokingly saying how I would never see one.) Kris has seen three total, one cow and two bulls. These things are massive. For some reason, I always thought of them more as deer, but they are like huge horses galloping through the woods. The one I saw was slowly creeping through the trees and I just stood there and watched. We have been seeing their tracks for weeks and it's amazing that they can fit their huge racks through the thick woods.

The morning we saw the moose, I said to Kris "Finally! Today is going to be a good day." Oh, I couldn't have been so wrong. The weather has been crazy up here. Saddleback Mountain, a range I had been looking forward to hiking, was one of our worst days on the trail to date. Cold weather, sideways rain, zero visibility. If a helicopter landed at any point during that day and asked if I wanted to quit and go home to my mommy, I would have been in that chopper sipping emergency hot coco before he could even finish his sentence. But, alas, we didn't give up. And we won't. Everyone has bad days. We have just had a few rainy, cold ones in a row lately.

But we move on. We did laundry, had hot showers and hot meals yesterday and stayed at the Stratton Motel and hostel and feel refreshed to head back out. In a few days, we will be in Monson, ME and going into the "hundred mile wilderness" and up to Mt. Katahdin. My dad will be joining us for the final rugged climb and we can't wait. Apparently, you can see the first sight of Katahdin from Saddleback...not that we saw anything, but we will start seeing it in the distance from multiple upcoming peaks. It seemed so far away in Georgia and now we can literally see it in the distance. Woohoo!

Keep warm thoughts coming our way as we head into the last two weeks.

All my love
Sarah

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Now that's what I call hiking!

Hello from Gorham, NH and mile 1,879. Only 298 miles to go and only a days walk to the Maine border! We are heading into the last state tomorrow and are looking forward to some of the best terrain of the trip. A lot has happened since my last email, so here goes as quick as I can type(since I am paying a dollar/ 1/2 hour at the Gorham library).

So, New Hampshire is AMAZING. What a treat to hike its' beautiful mountains. After Hanover, we took a day off in Glencliff, NH at the Hikers Welcome Hostel to give Kris time to rest from her cold and heal my heel (wet socks and boots are not a good combination and my heel looked like someone took a potato peeler to it!) We got a free stay because it needed "a woman's touch" and we definitely gave it that. The hostel was owned by a guy named "Packrat" and, boy, did his name fit him well. Kris and I spent probably two hours alphabetizing his huge VHS and DVD collection. A lot of dusty work, but worth a free zero day and a nights stay with a bed and a hot shower.

The next day we entered the Whites and hiked Mt. Moosilauke (first time above tree line on the AT). I'm told it's a beautiful view, but we were completely socked in and fighting against the blowing winds on its' rocky summit. It was cold, wet and I couldn't even see Kris when she was right in front of me. The weather continued to kick our butts as we entered the Whites (notorious for crazy weather). One day after a night long rain storm, we finally crawled out of our soaking tents to face the day. Everything was flooded and we had to ford creeks that had grown to roaring rivers overnight. We spent the day climbing up the wet, slippery rock walls with waterfalls flowing under our every step. At one point we had to straddle a fallen tree to cross the raging water. What happened to good ole' bridges? We summited Kinsman mountain at 4 pm and with only 4 miles down (!!) we decided to call it a day and rest our tired bodies for what was ahead.

Luckily, the Whites and the Presidentials rewarded us for all our hard work. Mt. Washington has cloud cover 247 days out of the year and only 40 clear days total. We had 7 in a row. We hiked along Franconia Ridge (awesome), Mt. Lafayette and Mt. Garfield under blue skies and a warm sun. We could see Mt. Washington three days before we even summited. Unbelievable.

The next day we practically had the mountains to ourselves. After 3 pm we didn't see a soul and we felt like we were in a ghost town....on the moon. What a cool place to hike and have no one around. We traversed the rocky, exposed summits of the Presidentials by following rock cairns (piles of rocks to show you the way since there are no trees to paint blazes on) with Mt. Washington in perfect view in the distance ALL day. That night we watched a sunset all to ourselves and stayed in the Lakes of the Clouds Hut's "Dungeon". It's an emergency bunker that they can't close and even though the hut is boarded up for the winter we stayed in one of the coolest places in the Whites for FREE. It pretty much is the basement and someone said "well, I guess it's better than dying out here." It does kind of look like a dungeon and smells a little, but I've stayed in worse out here. It's definitely a thru-hiker tradition :)

The Whites offer a series of huts (glorified hostels that run 89$ a night/ per person) with a crew of collegians who cook and clean up after you. There are also tent sites for 8$ a night/ per person. We had a successful relatively cheap stay all the way through. Two campsites, one work-for-stay hut, three "stealth" tent sites and two huts that were closed for the season that we stayed on the grounds anyway.

The next morning we woke early, summited Mt. Washington before 9 am and didn't see anyone all morning....until the cog railway and the Mt. Washington Auto Road opened for the day. Pretty quickly it felt like Grand Central Station and we had to wait 10 minutes to take our picture next to the summit sign because everyone who drove up had formed a line. Back on the trail, we finished up the Presidentials, tackled the Wildcats and the Carters and headed into town for a much needed zero day. Last night and tonight we are staying at "The Barn at Libbys" in downtown Gorham. We are literally sleeping in the barn attached to the fancy B&B. It's big and old, but warm and cozy nonetheless.

Well, on to Maine. I'll be at my Dad's house in 3 days and heading on to the elusive Mt. Katahdin. I am almost sad to see this journey end. Hopefully, I can write one more time before I finish up...
Keep us in your thoughts.

All my love
Sarah

PS if you know anyone who might like to read these stories or you just want to see some funny pictures check out thesarahjones.blogspot.com. I finally updated it at the Hikers Welcome.

Thursday, September 11, 2008

9/07/08 Less than 500 to go!

Hello from New Hampshire! I walked over the Connecticut river this afternoon and officially said my goodbyes to Vermont. As I sit here and write from Hanover, NH from inside a Dartmouth College building, we have officially walked 1,734.3 miles and we have 441.9 miles to go. But, hey who's counting?

Next week we will be in the infamous White Mountains and the Presidential Range in Northern New Hampshire. We will summit Mt. Washington (6,288 ft) on September 16th, so send us good vibes and good weather thoughts our way. If you didn't know, Mt. Washington is the home of some pretty extreme weather and where the highest winds ever were recorded (the gauge actually broke). Check it out. (http://www.mountwashington.org/). We will be above tree line for the first time this week on Mt. Moosilauke (4,802 ft) and will remain pretty much exposed once we enter the Whites. We have been looking forward to this section of the trail for a long time and all of our hard work will surely pay off as we tackle these last two challenging, beautiful states.

The wedding in Asheville was a huge success. Kelly planned an amazing fall wedding and everyone had a blast. Unlimited THANKS THANKS THANKS to all the Jones family (Grandpa, Grandma and Dad and Sandy) and Ryan for all their hard work and driving miles to help me get off the trail and back to society to be there for the wedding. I couldn't have done it without you guys. Thanks for EVERYTHING. I love you guys!

And, Dad, the 12 Tribes Cult you dropped me off at after the airport in Rutland, VT wasn't all that bad. Nice hostel with comfy beds and a hot shower. Hippies serving tea and organic food and none of them tried to convert us...

While in Asheville, Kelly got me a massage for my birthday while she and all the bridesmaids got manicures and pedicures for the big day. I opted to skip the pedicure since I currently am missing 1 and 1/2 toenails and have worked WAY too hard on building these calluses to have them taken away now. I got a kick out of filling out the form before the massage. Name, age etc. were pretty standard. I filled in occupation as: hiker and address: my tent. Then, the best question, do you exercise? and if so, how often? I casually wrote yes. 10-12+ hours a day. everyday. ha!

Back on the trail, Kris helped me celebrate my 27th birthday in true AT style. She surprised me with tortillas, fresh avocado, rice, a jar (yes a jar) of salsa, fresh cheese and all the fixings for burritos. She also baked cupcakes and we packed out frosting for my birthday desert. We only hiked 5 miles that afternoon and spent the evening camping at a lookout and watching a beautiful sunset. Goodbye 26....it's been fun.

Sorry for the longest email ever...it might be a while before I'm a computer again, so if this takes you a week to read we should be good. Miss and love all of you. We're practically in the home stretch, so keep us in your thoughts from your warm, four-walled houses.

PS IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT:) Ryan and I are moving to Park City, UT for the winter. Ryan got a job at Deer Valley Ski Resort (one of the best in the United States). I am really excited to ski some big powder and convert to Mormonism. Ok, maybe not the last part. But, I am very very excited to live in the same zip code as my best friend. Anyone want to come out and play?

8/26/08 11 states down...3 to go‏

Hello from Manchester Center, Vermont. That's right...we are in Vermont and officially crossed over mile 1600 two days ago. (insert oooh and aaahs accordingly) Crazy. I still cant believe we have walked this far. It feels like only yesterday that I was writing emails about walking a measly 100 miles. I have two more days of hiking before I meet my grandparents and they whisk me away to Manchester, NH to fly to Asheville, NC for Mike & Kelly's wedding. It will be a quick, busy trip before coming back north and finishing up the last 500 miles.

The weather is definitely changing up here and the leaves are already starting to change color and drop at the higher elevations. It looks like we will be up here for a really beautiful fall. Vermont has been great so far and it seems that we are on the tail end of a pretty nasty, rainy season. All the hikers just a week to two weeks ahead of us hiked through record setting rain for July and spent their days wading through knee deep mud. Its been muddy since we crossed the VT border the other day, but definitely bearable. Some of our friends actually skipped ahead to get away from the muddy terrain. Hopefully the weather will hold for us over the next few weeks and we stay relatively dry.

This morning for breakfast we climbed over Stratton Mountain (elev.3936) and hiked the 18.5 miles into town. Its pretty cool to think that Benton MacKaye, the inspiration behind this footpath I've been traveling on, first thought about an eastern continental trail while sitting in a tree on its summit. We climbed the fire tower at the top and the whole mountain was completely socked in with fog. It was funny to see all the labels on the windows of what we were supposed to be seeing and just imagined the views he must have seen in the distance.

Last week we stayed in Dalton, MA with a local named Tom Levardi. Twenty years ago he brought a hiker home and the next day he had three hikers sleeping on his front porch. He's never turned anyone away since. His house hasn't been redecorated since 1975, but it was a much needed comfortable day off. Tonight we are staying at the "Green Mountain House" in Manchester Center. Its a new hostel opened by a hiker just 5 weeks ago. By far, this is the nicest hostel we've stayed yet. If you can even call it a hostel. When we pulled up to the house there was a small barn next to the big house. To all of our surprise, the large house was the hostel and the barn was their house! It feels almost too nice for all these stinky hikers to be hanging out in.

Well, I'm off to enjoy cotton sheets and an actual pillow under my head(and not my rain jacket stuffed in my clothes bag.) You people out there in the real world don't know how good you have it :)

8/13/08 Hello New England!

Hello from Kent, Connecticut. I am officially 2/3 done with the trail! That's right, NJ and NY are outta here. Yesterday we walked into CT and are now in New England. In 2 1/2 days I will be in Massachusetts and making my way to Vermont. We are taking a zero day today (no hiking) and hanging out in Kent. This posh New England town is definitely different from the small southern towns we have been used to. The outfitter here is more like a boutique with jewelry and cutesy clothes. Yesterday, we treated ourselves to a haircut at a salon and the lady actually told us 'it was on her.' Our buzz cuts are growing out nicely, but it was definitely time for a trim. My uncle Doug drove down from Massachusetts and treated us to a nice evening out with real food and yummy beer on tap. Thanks for the pick-me up, Doug, come see us anytime!

We are slowly getting back on track since Kris's absence and plan on doing about 16+ mile a day average to make our goal of northern Vermont by the end of the month. Kris's second day back we walked in absolute downpour. At 10 o'clock in the morning it looked like 10 o'clock at night and we walked with sopping wet shoes (water was pouring out of our shoes with every step) and later that day we were haled on. NJ was a beautiful change from rocky PA and NY was actually one of my favorite states to hike in so far. The mountains are coming back and my legs are happy for the challenge. Last week while sitting on top of a mountain we could clearly see the NY City skyline about 40 miles away. Pretty cool.

One of our trip highlights, for sure, was staying with the Mayor of Unionville, NY. Its not listed in the guide books and the buzz about his house has been traveling down the trail by word of mouth. We walked into the small town's country store and inquired about the mayor. The girl made a call behind the counter and ten minutes later a bronco pulls up and a guy says 'Put your stuff in the back, lets go.' We hop in and ask 'are you the mayor?' 'No, we're his secret service men.' Ok. We drive down the road and expect some palatial mansion, but instead pull up to a modest two story house. We got free dinner, showers (I actually wore the mayor's bathrobe around the house while doing laundry!) and a scrumptious breakfast the next day. We slept in bunk beds in the basement and were woken up in the morning by a yelling mayor saying 'Get up here for breakfast you jerk, your eggs are getting cold!' Their NY hospitality was a little harsher than some our recent stays in the south, but definitely an experience.

We are just starting to hike passed south bounders (thru-hikers hiking from Maine to Georgia who leave around June). It's great to stop and chat and compare notes of places we've been. It's crazy to think that they still have 2/3 of the trail to go. I feel like we have been SO far, I'm actually glad I only have 1/3 of the trail left. So, some of our friends ahead of us jokingly told a south bounder named Smoothie to hide and scare us, just 'be careful one of them might punch you.' Well, last week, sure enough, he hid behind a tree and jumped out at us. Kris froze and screamed like a girl and without even thinking I ran up to him and punched him in the stomach and said 'It's not cool to scare girls out here! What the hell, man?' Hey, he WAS warned. haha.

It's starting to get chilly at night and the days have been absolutely beautiful. I'm thankful everyday that I am outside and have the opportunity to be on this great trip. It's going to be hard to be confined to four walls when I get back. Talk to everyone soon...

8/01/08 PA..our relationship has become rocky..‏.

Hello from the PA/ NJ border. I am writing this sunny morning from the Church of the Mountain Hiker Hostel in Delaware Water Gap, PA. When I cross over the Delaware River this afternoon I will officially be in New Jersey.

Since my last email, I walked over the official halfway point (and was greeted by a rattlesnake at the border) and took part in the "half-way half gallon challenge". At a small camp store at Pine Grove Furnace State Park hikers attempt to eat an entire half gallon of ice cream. Sort of a right of passage I guess. Yeah, I couldn't do it. I know, what kind of thru-hiker am I? Its pretty bad when even the lactose intolerant kid finished. O well. I gave it a valiant effort. Kris got off the trail to go to the beach with her family for 2 weeks and I hiked on the 190 miles to Delaware Water Gap with a weekend off in Philadelphia with my little brother Erik. I ate a real Philly Cheese Steak, saw The Dark Knight and ate way too much junk food and slurpies. Kris just got back yesterday at the hostel and its great to have my partner in crime back.

PA was a long and rocky state. I think they should think about changing their name to Rocksylvania. Seriously, I have never seen so many stupid rocks. Big ones, little tiny ones, sharp ones, steep ones, slick ones, wobbly ones...they never end Long before I started this trek, I was warned about this section with comments like "You won't even touch the ground in PA" and "The park rangers go out at night and sharpen the rocks." I agree with both those statements, but what they don't tell you is that timber rattlesnakes live under these rocks and when you fall on them they hurt....a lot. I had the pleasure of sporting a softball size black & blue bruise on my arm for almost the whole state when I took a dive on one of these gems. I can't express my happiness of marking this state of my list.

The next four states (NJ, NY, MA and CT) combined are just over 300 miles and I plan on being in Northern VT by the end of the month. On August 28th I fly out of Manchester, NH to go to my friend's wedding in Asheville, NC for a long weekend. So, the more miles I do this month, the better position I will be in when I fly back on Sept. 1st. Then back on trail to celebrate my 27th birthday trail style on the 2nd.

Life on the trail is going great. I'm averaging about 18+ miles a day and yesterday I hiked 25 miles into this hostel (my biggest day yet.) I'm still planning on attempting a "marathon day" which is 26.2 miles, but it hasn't happened yet. It feels good to officially be up north and I feel like I am in a great place for finishing up this journey. I hope life is treating all of you kindly in your neck of the woods.

7/14/08 Goodbye VA, WV & MD


Hello from Maryland...in 2 days I'll be in Pennsylvania. I am officially out of the very long state of Virginia (1/4 of whole trail). This week in West Virginia I walked over mile 1,000 and into Harper's Ferry the 'psychological half way point' of the trail and home of the AT headquarters. We got our picture taken and are officially in the 2008 yearbook for AT thru-hike attempts.

In 4 days, we will be at the official half way point in Pennsylvania at mile 1088. WV and MD have few miles and went really quickly. If only all states went that fast. There have been a lot of mental rewards in the last few days building up to the halfway point. Its always good for the ole morale to really feel like you're accomplishing something. Especially after leaving Harper's Ferry and a guy actually asking me 'So, are you the last person hiking the trail?' and Kris says 'yep, not a single person is behind us.' haha


Life on the trail is going great. Since my last email, I finished Shenandoah National Park and spent my days eating fresh blackberries and raspberries growing along the trail. I got off in Winchester (my hometown) and spent the 4th holiday with some of my favorite people in the whole world. I stayed with my mom and got to see 2 of my brothers, sister in law, my niece and finally met my new nephew. He's pretty much perfect. Ryan and I celebrated our 2 year anniversary and look forward to one day living in the same zip code again. During my time off, I had to get another pair of insoles and am officially on my 3rd pair of shoes. Good times. I owe my feet big time after this journey.

Well, New England is calling for me. I must get back to the trail.

6/27/08 Country roads take me home...

Hello from mile 850! I am currently visiting friends in Charlottesville, VA. Tomorrow, we start Shenandoah National Park and will hike 100 miles over the next 6 days and cross over Skyline Drive 28 times. If you plan it just right, a hiker can have a cold drink and a flushing toilet every day at the many restaurants and gift shops along the way. What a thought. I will then be getting off the trail in Front Royal, VA just south of my hometown of Winchester. I can't wait to be home for a few days! I will be getting off the trail at mile 961 and will be halfway done the trail 100 miles later. So close.

Anyone who said Virginia is 'boring' or 'flat' must have never hiked all of it. There is actually a term 'Virginia Blues' because hikers spend over 500 miles in one state and feel bored. Being from Virginia, I've loved it. Even though I had 2,000+ feet climbs every day this week and an almost 3,000 foot climb before breakfast two days ago. I still love Virginia.

So, 'trail magic' comes in all forms. Sometimes its a cooler full of cold drinks by a road side, a much needed ride into town or an impromptu BBQ at a gap between two mountains. The other day, I actually found 6 unopened Coca-colas left in a cold creek. Delicious. This week, after a hot morning of hiking, we were met at the trail head by a guy named 'The Runner' with cold Mtn. Dews and Oreos. A large group of us were sitting around relaxing in the shade when the guy eventually tells us that he set the record for the AT in 1991 (that's right 54 days and 9 hours!!!). His record has since been beat, but he still holds the record for the Pacific Crest Trail that runs along America's west coast. He is an ultra-marathon runner who said he 'camped a few times while hiking the trail.' I don't know if running a 50+ miles everyday is really considered hiking. It was cool to talk to him...until he starts asking us how long we had been hiking the trail.

The conversation went like this. My response was 'almost 3 months.' His response was 'Oh, you're never going to make it.' 'What?' 'Do the math, you're never going to make it.' Wow. Why would you do trail magic and then be negative to everyone?

So, I respond with 'My grandpa did the math. 15.5 miles a day with every 8th day off and Ill be up at Katahdin, no problem. We started doing 7 miles a day and now we are up to 19+ a day.' My friend then chimes in 'You don't think I'm going to make it....why should I believe you broke some record?' Burn.

And besides, my mom said I was going to make it. I think her actual words were 'of course you'll make it. It's you.' So, there.

Ain't nobody gonna bring me down....

6/14/08 Lions&Tigers&Teenagers..OH, MY!

Hello from VA. It has been a hot and interesting week. So, since Ive been on this journey I have joked that I 'wanted my money back' for not seeing any cool wildlife in the Smokies and along the trail. I've seen lots of snakes, lizards, turtles, deer, heard a few turkey, but nothing awesome like wild hogs or black bear. Hopefully, this week is the closest I'll ever get to wildlife again....

The first night out of Pearisburg, after our great Blacksburg vacation, Kris and I camped about 8 miles from town. It was a hot nasty day and the water source at the shelter was completely bone dry. We found a small campsite with a spring and set up camp. Sometime in the middle of the night I awoke to loud, heavy footsteps in the leaves to the left of my tent. My first thought that it was one of our friends coming to mess with us. I mean these were loud footsteps. The steps came about 10 ft from my tent, shuffled by and walked towards Kris's a few yards away. Abruptly, the feet turn around and shuffle back through the woods towards me. Whatever large animal was outside decided to come and lay down at my feet. THUD. So, here I am in my tiny tent, completely wide-eyed awake now, clutching my tazer in one hand and my mase in the other. Then, the heavy breathing and growling starts. Kris at this time is totally asleep in her sweet slumber land a few feet away and I'm trying to calm my pounding heart while I clutch my little defense items against my chest. It hung out at my tent for an hour or two, breathing, growling, grunting and eventually strolled off from where it came. I finally fell asleep after 4 a.m.

The next night I did not get much sleep either. I spent the evening out of the stormy weather with six hikers in a small, crowded shelter. The group consisted of Kris, three of my friends and a father and son team out for a 3 week Southbound hike to Damascus, VA. The kid was about 15 and not looking like this was his dream vacation. They had only been out for a few days and he seemed pretty much over it. After the sun went down and the shelter finally settled into sleep, I am woken up by this kid rolled over his sleep pad with his arm over me! Its a small shelter, but its not THAT small. I push his arm off of me and he mumbles in a completely sleeping voice..'I don't want to walk any more.' I spent the rest of the night halfway on Kris's sleep pad trying to be as far away as possible from the dreaming spooner. I don't know whats worse. Large animals at your feet or homesick teenagers sleeping next to you.

And to top it all off, this week I walked through a gypsy moth infestation. Its like walking in fall, but its really hot and all the leaves on the ground are green and half eaten. Flowers are all over the trail and you feel like you keep being just a few minutes behind a wedding procession you cant seem to catch. Everywhere around you sounds like its raining, but its actually caterpillars falling from the sky and landing all over the woods..and you. One day nothing. The next day, they were everywhere. Some trees were so covered in these little crawlies that they started looking like tinsel covered Christmas trees. Hopefully, I can walk faster than they can devour. Oh, and a group of hikers ate two snakes for dinner the other night. Darn! And I could have been there if I had just stayed at that shelter.

Out of the woods for the evening and away from all creatures for now, I get back on the trail tomorrow. Hopefully, going to stay in a 17 mile-a-day average and burn up the mountainside with our footsteps. Home feels closer everyday.

6/09/08 Bring on the Heat.


Hello from Virginia Tech! Laurel said I don't write enough, so I thought I would write a quick hello from Blacksburg, VA. (the trail runs about 20 miles west of town) It felt good to spend a few days relaxing in one of my favorite places I have lived. Its amazing how cheap of a date you are after only drinking water from creeks! I definitely don't have the same tolerance I had when I lived here as an undergrad ;)

The hiking life is going good. Hot but good. Sometime last week, mother nature decided it simply just wasn't hot enough and there were not enough biting insects out and something had to be done about it. It seemed like overnight the temperatures starting reaching the lower 90s and the bugs brought their appetites. I counted 18 mosquito bites on one leg. I am now the proud owner of the strongest bug spray I think I am legally allowed to put on my body. Unfortunately, not much can be done about the heat. Its Sweatfest 2008 from here on out,folks. Last week, Kris and hiked most of the morning, took an hour and half long nap in the middle of the day and hiked until dinner. I think I could get used to the new schedule. I'm not really one to get up super early, but its that time of year when you cant sleep late in a tent even if you wanted to.

Tomorrow I head back to the trail and hike a section I have really been looking forward to. MacAfee's Knob, Tinker Cliffs and Dragon's Tooth. All part of the Virginia 'Triple Crown.' Three completely different rock formations, but within a few days hike of each other. Then its about 2 weeks to Charlottesville. Spike, here I come! And then home to Winchester. Currently, I am 624 miles down out of 2, 175. Next week I will be halfway done VA and in less than a month, I will be done half of the entire trail! Where are all those miles going?

Well, its getting late. I better go enjoy my last night in cotton sheets and in a house with running water and flushing toilets. Ahhhh....the simple things in life.

5/27/08 500 miles down....a lot to go

hello from Virginia! Sorry it has been so long since i have written, but I am alive, safe and doing well.
Three states (GA, TN & NC) are done and as of yesterday i walked my 500th mile. Did you know that the average American only walks about 3 miles a month? So, don't worry, i walk about 15 a day so I'm picking up your slack....
Ryan hiked with me after Roan Mountain, NC for about a week (thanks again to the Hygons for bringing Ryan and foot long Subway subs and cold sodas to the top). After climbing Roan, I can see why Ryan met us at the top. We stayed the night in the highest shelter on the AT and the next day we hiked over one of my favorite hikes so far, the Roan Highlands. In one day we saw a range of crazy weather on top of the natural balds. We hiked against crazy strong winds, thunder, rain storms, hail and then sunshine and 2 rainbows. It was cool to see Grandfather and Sugar Mountain in the distance. Ryan worked at Sugar this winter and Grandfather Mountain was the back drop for where we lived in Seven Devils. Jay, Cindy and Dan I waved at Beech mountain in the distance and definitely thought about you guys up there :)
I definitely have my 'hiker legs' but am still working on my hiker feet. Two weeks ago i had to get off the trail about 60 miles before Damascus,VA due to extreme pain in my feet. I always knew i had flat feet, but all these miles made them too painful to walk on. Luckily, Trail Days, the largest trail festival in the world was going on and i was able to see a free podiatrist and got custom insoles made (definitely not free). Hopefully, 5 days off and the right support will correct the problem and stop any future pain. Everyone keeps saying 'it's just walking,' but when your feet hurt.....its not that easy.
After taking a few days off and enjoying Damascus (known as the friendliest town on the AT) we got a ride back to where we got off and hiked the 60 miles BACK to Damascus. It felt good to officially walk over the VA line and I have started the long haul across the state (500 miles and 1/4 of the whole trail). I am taking a zero day today (no hiking) in the tiny town of Troutdale, VA and staying in a free hostel behind a Baptist church. The town has under 200 people and pretty much just has a post office, a diner and the church. Visiting some of these smaller towns is one of my favorite parts of this journey because I find myself in places I may never have gone to otherwise.
In a little over a week I will be in Pearisburg, VA and getting off the trail to for a much needed Blacksburg visit.
Being in Virginia feels like home and I cant wait to be in Winchester to meet my new nephew (who was born a day before i left). I'm walking as fast as i can, Jacob, I will meet you soon! Mom, I'll see you in about a month, save me a seat at our salad bar :)
Life on the trail is going great. They say its 20% physical and 80% mental once you get into your hiking groove. The question arises 'Can you get up and hike again today? and the next day? and the next?' So far the answer is still yes.
I miss everyone and think about you all the time. Think about me often....Ill be somewhere in the woods.

5/01/08 Smokies to Hot Springs

Hello from Hot Springs, NC. So much has happened since my last correspondence! On Sunday, we walked the 20 miles from Max Patch into Hot Springs with the wettest weather to date pouring down on us. I woke in the morning and actually had water in my boot all the way to the top. That was a first.

The Smokies were AMAZING. It felt like i was hiking through so many different worlds all confined in one small area on the border of NC/TN. One mile felt like the Northwoods of the Maine, the next the moss covered forests of Oregon, then into an area that felt like where the Ewoks live (very California redwoods-like). Truly an experience and a beautiful hike. The Smokies have more types of trees than all of Europe and over 500+ types of wildflowers. I saw so many I cant even begin to count them. We had an amazing hike on Earth Day that actually corresponded with the beginning of the Smokies Wildflower Pilgrimage Program.We hiked the 70 miles through the park from end to end, with one quick trip into the lovely town of Gatlinburg. Sorry, not enough time for Dollywood this trip.

So, I set two goals for this trip. 1. get to hot springs in a month and 2. get to Katahdin before it closes. I hiked into hot springs one month to the day. Ryan and my friend Kelly joined us for the wet hike and I have spent the last two 'zero' days relaxing, boating the French Broad, soaking in the hot springs spa and consuming much town food. I'm continuing to meet lots of people. Actually, two of my hiker friends that Kris and I have been hiking with practically since the beginning, Johnny Thunder and Orion, spent the two days off in Hot Springs/ Asheville area. My friends did an awesome job showing these boys from New York what North Carolina is all about. (Orion had never had biscuits and gravy!) This morning we begin the hike to Erwin, TN and then onto Damascus, VA (the friendliest hiker town on the trail and the upcoming TRAIL DAYS festival).

280 miles down, just under 1,900 to go. I haven't wanted to quit yet, but definitely am over it sometimes at the end of the day. I wake with the sun (what we call bright-thirty) and usually are retired to the tent by dark-thirty. I love when we leave a town or pass a town and everyone has the updated weather report to discuss. I don't even bother. If it rains, I hike. If its cold, I hike.

Thanks everyone we have seen in the last few days for all the hospitality and soft places to sleep. I miss everyone and think about you all the time....

4/14/08 Take that first 100 miles!

"The AT. The most fun you'll ever have. Interrupted by long walks in the woods"

Hello, from the Bryson City, NC library. I hiked down to the Nantahala River yesterday and am resting my feet for the day. Since my last email I have completed my first 135 miles. (only about 2000 left to go). We had some lovely weather for a few days, but were back to cold as we begin the approach on the Smokies in a few days.

Life on the trail is getting into its routine. Not that it feels routine because I have yet to set my tent up in the same place twice. And hanging your food every night because you are in bear and wild boar country takes a little getting used to....

After slowing building our mileage and getting through rugged Georgia, Kris and I are up to 13+ mile days as we head into the national park. We haven't slept in a shelter yet, but often camp near them for social reasons (seeing friends and cooking meals).

In case any of you are wondering, we are definitely NOT starving out here. After 3+ months of dehydrating food and vacuum sealing home made meals, all the hard work has been paying off. Kris and I have built up a reputation for having 'the best food'. We have only met one other person who prepared their own food before hand, where most people restock every week in town. When in town we can buy fresh fruits, cheese etc., if we want, but dont really have to buy any supplies.

One great thing about this experience is the people you meet. Thousands of people from all walks of life attempt this trail every year, only about 10% complete the entire thru-hike and about 2% of that are women. I have hiked with doctors, lawyers, engineers, recent grads, preachers, lost souls and wandering hearts. Truly an experience to cross the paths of so many interesting people on this journey.

Hope all is well in your neck of the woods....

4/04/08 Put one foot in front of the other. Repeat.

Hello from the trail! (Well, from a library in Hiawassee, GA). Kris and I have hiked a little over 50 miles and will be entering North Carolina after the weekend. Last night after a few long days, we decided not to stay in the windy shelter on the side of Blue Mountain and hitched into town for the night. The Hiawassee Inn is “the AT hiker’s home away from home” and is a very hiker friendly place. They wash your clothes, feed you breakfast and even let us borrow their van last night to drive into town for an all you can eat fried chicken buffet!

We started our journey last week in overcast skies. The first four days were rainy and cold, but was a nice test of all of our gear (which worked great keeping us dry). We hiked along rugged terrain in an endless blanket of fog. One hiker described it as “hiking in a dream,” but after four days of it we were happy to see the sun make an appearance. Did you know you could get hiker’s arm? My right arm is burned because that side of the mountain got the most sun.

The rain was followed by two nice days of warm and sunny weather. The view from Blood Mountain (highest point in GA) was amazing and we were able to see all the ground we had just covered. Followed by more rain and cold weather, we took our first “zero” day in Hiawassee and are enjoying a day of no walking or climbing. Tomorrow we head back into the storm and finish the last 30 miles in GA.

Rest assured that I am safe and with good company. This is a very social experience, but very solo at the same time. I spend my days walking with the silence of the woods, but spend my evenings with people from all over the world who enjoy the same things I do.

Sorry I can’t reply to everyone’s email, but after a week after being wet and cold and forcing my body to keep climbing these rugged Georgia mountains, it was nice to read all the kind words of encouragement. Keep em’ coming.

Everyone loves mass emails.

The first white blaze of many..

We will follow these ALL the way to Maine.
2,176.2 miles and an estimated 5 million steps.
No big deal.

"Harvest" & "Scout"
Springer Mountain
March 28, 2008

Before I left for the Appalachian Trail...

I had hair...

and then I didn't.

Me & Kris
Springer Mountain
Southern Terminus of the Appalachian Trail
March 28, 2008

Thesis. Smeshish. I officially have a MFA.

I am finished.

Savannah College of Art & Design
November 2007